The Complete Repiping Guide: What Happens During a Whole-Home Repipe

A whole-home repipe is one of the largest plumbing investments a California homeowner will make — and one of the most misunderstood. It's not a repair; it's a complete replacement of your home's water supply system. Every pipe that carries water from your main shutoff to every faucet, toilet, shower, water heater, and appliance gets removed or abandoned, and a brand-new distribution system takes its place.

The scope sounds intimidating — and the price tag ($5,200–$18,000+ depending on home size and material) reflects it. But a repipe is also one of the most predictable, controlled plumbing projects we do. After 800+ repipes across Los Angeles and San Diego since 2008, we've refined the process into a repeatable system: free inspection, written plan, 2–6 days of installation, drywall patching, permit inspection, 25-year warranty.

This guide is the companion to our repiping service page. It walks you through exactly what happens from the moment you book the free estimate to the day the inspector signs off — so you know what you're paying for, what to expect in your home, and how to make sure the plumber you hire does it right.

Why California homes need repipes more than most

If you live in Minnesota or Ohio, your home's plumbing probably isn't a ticking time bomb. In California — particularly Los Angeles and San Diego — it often is. Four factors combine to make repiping more common here than in most of the country:

1. Post-war housing boom on aging materials

Between 1945 and 1975, Los Angeles added more homes than any other metro in the country — roughly 400,000 single-family homes. Most were plumbed with either galvanized steel (pre-1960) or Type M copper (1960–1975). Both materials are now at or past their engineered lifespan. In Silver Lake, Hollywood, and Pasadena, we still find original galvanized in 60–70% of pre-1960 homes. In the San Fernando Valley tract homes, 1960s copper is the failing material.

2. Reactive water chemistry

San Diego's 280–340 ppm hard water combined with aggressive chloramine disinfection attacks copper from the inside, causing pinhole leaks. LA's 120–160 ppm water is less aggressive but still corrodes galvanized steel predictably. Both water chemistries shorten pipe lifespan compared to soft-water cities.

3. Reactive clay soil and seismic movement

Much of the LA basin sits on expansive clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry. This seasonal movement flexes buried pipes at every joint. Add the small earthquakes (3.0–4.5 magnitude) that occur regularly and you get chronic stress on already-aged materials.

4. Slab-on-grade foundations

Post-war LA homes were built on concrete slabs with copper water lines buried directly in the concrete — no access from below. Seventy years later, those lines are failing as slab leaks, and re-burying new pipe would repeat the same failure mode. Repipes in these homes almost always reroute water distribution above-ground through attics and walls.

For a deeper look at galvanized steel specifically, see our galvanized steel pipes in LA guide. For slab leak diagnosis that often leads to repipes, see our complete slab leak detection guide.

Seven signs it's time to repipe

Most homeowners don't wake up deciding to repipe. They get pushed there by a pattern of recurring problems that patching no longer solves. Here are the seven symptoms that, in combination, signal a whole-home repipe is the right call:

1. Multiple pinhole leaks within 18 months

One pinhole is bad luck. Two is a pattern. Three is a system failure in progress. Every pinhole leak repair costs $380–$680 in labor and materials — and each one means another section of pipe is thinning toward failure. After the third pinhole, the math almost always favors a full repipe over chasing leaks.

2. Brown, orange, or rust-flecked water

If rust appears in your water — especially from both hot and cold taps — your supply pipes are actively corroding from the inside. This isn't a fixture problem; it's a whole-system problem. The rust is a sign that the pipe walls are thinning and approaching failure.

3. Low pressure throughout the house

Galvanized steel pipe loses internal diameter over decades as rust and scale build up. A ½" galvanized pipe that once delivered 7 GPM might deliver 2 GPM after 50 years. When low pressure affects multiple fixtures — not just one — the restriction is in the supply system, and repiping is the only fix.

4. Recurring slab leaks

If your home has a slab foundation and you've had two or more slab leaks, the under-slab copper is failing systematically. Every spot repair is a band-aid on a dying system. Most homeowners in this situation choose to abandon the under-slab lines entirely and reroute the entire system above-ground through the attic — which is essentially a repipe.

5. Home built before 1970 with original plumbing

This is the proactive indicator. If your home is 55+ years old and still on original galvanized or Type M copper, you're living on borrowed time. Proactive repiping costs 30–40% less than emergency repiping after a catastrophic failure — and eliminates the stress, water damage, and insurance deductible of a burst pipe.

6. Home sale inspection requirement

Aging plumbing is one of the most common negotiation items on California home inspections. Buyers' agents routinely demand a $5,000–$15,000 credit for homes with original galvanized or failing copper. Some buyers walk away entirely. A proactive repipe before listing removes this negotiating leverage and often adds to perceived home value.

7. Insurance requirement or exclusion

Some California homeowner's insurance carriers have added galvanized and polybutylene pipe exclusions in recent years. If your insurer requires a repipe to maintain coverage — or has excluded water damage from your existing pipe material — a proactive repipe usually pays for itself within 3–5 years of premium savings.

PEX-A vs. copper: the material decision

Every repipe we do uses one of two materials: PEX-A (Uponor) or copper Type L. Both are excellent, code-approved, and warrantied for decades. The right choice depends on your home's water chemistry, layout, and your personal priorities.

When we spec PEX-A (85% of our repipes)

• Any home in San Diego County (hard water)
• Homes with a history of pinhole leaks
• Slab-foundation homes needing above-ground reroute
• Homes with tight attic chases and complex framing
• Budget-conscious homeowners (saves $4K–$10K vs copper)
• Vacation homes or rental properties (no theft risk)

When we spec copper (15% of our repipes)

• Outdoor exposed runs (pool equipment, outdoor kitchens)
• Wildfire-zone homes with attic pipe runs
• Luxury markets where copper carries perceived value (Beverly Hills, Pacific Palisades, La Jolla)
• Homeowners with strong personal preference and 20+ year horizon
• Connecting to existing copper runs where material consistency is desired

For the full material decision framework with California-specific water chemistry considerations, see our PEX vs. copper decision guide.

Step 1: The free in-home inspection (60–90 minutes)

Every repipe at Pacific Line starts with a free in-home inspection — no diagnostic fee, no obligation. A licensed technician arrives within the promised window and walks through your home systematically, documenting the existing system and building a repipe plan.

What the inspection covers

• Pipe material identification. We identify every exposed section — galvanized, copper, PEX, polybutylene, CPVC — and document the material with photos.
• Fixture count. We count every hot and cold fixture: sinks, toilets, showers, tubs, water heater, hose bibs, washing machine, dishwasher, ice maker, etc. This determines the scope and price.
• System pressure test. We measure static pressure at the hose bib. Anything over 80 PSI requires a pressure-reducing valve as part of the repipe — high pressure accelerates pipe failure.
• Pipe thickness measurement. On accessible copper sections, we use an ultrasonic thickness gauge to measure remaining wall thickness. This documents how much life is left in the existing pipe.
• Water quality test. We test a first-draw sample for iron, hardness, and pH — important for material selection, particularly in San Diego.
• Access point survey. We identify attic access, crawlspace access, and potential drywall access points for the new pipe runs. This determines installation complexity.
• Routing plan. We map the new pipe route — main trunk from the water meter/shutoff, branch distribution through attic or crawlspace, drop-downs to each fixture.

What you receive

At the end of the inspection, you receive a written, itemized estimate with:

• Material recommendation (PEX-A or copper) with rationale
• Good/better/best options where applicable
• Flat-rate pricing including materials, labor, permits, drywall patching, and haul-away
• Timeline (typically 2–3 days for PEX-A, 4–6 days for copper)
• Warranty terms (25-year workmanship on top of manufacturer warranty)
• Financing options (0% APR for 12–18 months through GreenSky)

There's no pressure to proceed same-day. Most homeowners take the estimate home, discuss it with family, and call back within a week to schedule. We hold quoted prices for 60 days.

Step 2: Routing & planning (pre-install)

Once you approve the estimate, we schedule the installation — typically within 7–14 business days. Between approval and install day, our lead technician completes the detailed routing plan:

The manifold vs. home-run decision

There are two ways to route PEX-A through a home:

• Trunk-and-branch — a large main line (1" or ¾") runs from the water shutoff to a central location, with smaller branches (½") teeing off to each fixture. Traditional approach, uses less pipe, requires more fittings.
• Home-run (manifold) — a central manifold near the water heater distributes individual ½" lines directly to each fixture. Fewer fittings (no tees), easier to isolate individual fixtures, but uses more pipe and requires a manifold cabinet.

We spec home-run on roughly 70% of our repipes — the reduced fitting count means fewer potential leak points, and the ability to shut off individual fixtures without affecting the whole house is valuable for future maintenance. For larger homes (4+ bathrooms), we often use a hybrid: home-run to manifolds on each floor, with trunk-and-branch on each floor.

The reroute decision (slab homes)

For slab-foundation homes with under-slab copper, the repipe includes abandoning the under-slab lines entirely and routing the new system above-ground. New supply lines run through the attic (in single-story homes) or through interior walls and chase cavities (in two-story homes). The old under-slab copper is capped at both ends and left in place — removing it would require breaking concrete for no benefit.

Permit application

We submit the permit application to LADBS (Los Angeles), DSD (San Diego), or the relevant municipal building department immediately after approval. Permits typically issue within 3–7 business days. The permit fee ($280–$480 depending on jurisdiction) is included in our quoted price — we don't add it on later.

Step 3: Installation days (2–6 days)

Here's the day-by-day flow of a typical PEX-A whole-home repipe on a 2-bathroom, 1,600 sq ft single-story home with attic access. Copper repipes follow the same sequence but take 4–6 days due to slower soldering work.

Day 1 morning: Setup and protection

• Crew arrives at 8am (or the scheduled time) and introduces themselves
• Floor protection laid from entry to work areas — Ram Board on hard floors, plastic runners on carpet
• Furniture moved and covered in work areas
• Main water shutoff located, tested, and labeled if not already
• Water heater drained and disconnected from supply
• Attic access opened and prepared

Day 1 afternoon: Main trunk and attic routing

• Main supply line installed from water shutoff to attic or crawlspace
• Main trunk routed through attic with proper hangers every 4 feet
• Manifold installed (if home-run system) near water heater location
• Pressure-reducing valve installed if incoming pressure exceeds 80 PSI
• Thermal expansion tank installed at water heater if required by code

Day 2 morning: Branch drops to fixtures

• Small access holes cut in walls and ceilings at each fixture location (typically 12"×12")
• Branch lines routed from attic/crawlspace down to each fixture
• New shutoff valves installed at every fixture — angle stops at sinks and toilets, ball valves at water heater and washing machine
• Fixture supply lines (the flexible connectors from the shutoff to the fixture) replaced with new braided stainless

Day 2 afternoon: Connections and pressure test

• All branch lines connected to fixtures with Uponor expansion fittings (PEX-A) or soldered joints (copper)
• Water heater reconnected to new supply
• System pressurized to 80 PSI and held for 30 minutes to verify zero leaks
• Every joint visually inspected
• Each fixture tested for proper flow and temperature

Day 3: Testing, cleanup, and walkthrough

• Final flow testing at every fixture with timed bucket fill
• Water heater fired and temperature verified at furthest fixture
• Old galvanized or copper pipe removed from accessible areas (attic, crawlspace, wall cavities where removed)
• All debris hauled away — including scrap metal recycling
• Floor protection removed, work areas cleaned
• Final walkthrough with homeowner to verify every fixture and answer questions
• Warranty documentation and maintenance schedule provided

Living through the repipe

Most homeowners stay in the home during the repipe. Water is shut off during work hours (typically 8am–5pm) and restored each evening so you can use the kitchen and bathrooms overnight. We coordinate shutoffs to minimize disruption — for example, we'll keep one bathroom operational during the day if possible.

Step 4: Drywall patching & cleanup

Every repipe requires some drywall access — typically 8–15 small holes (12"×12") at strategic points where new pipe drops into walls. Here's how we handle the restoration:

What we patch

• New drywall patches installed at every access hole, taped, mudded, and sanded smooth
• Texture matching — we match the existing wall texture (orange peel, knockdown, smooth) as closely as possible
• Ceiling patches where pipe runs required ceiling access
• Cabinet back patches where pipe drops through kitchen or bathroom cabinets

What we don't do

We don't paint. Paint matching is highly variable — even the same "white" paint from the same brand will show differences due to age, sheen, and lighting. We leave every patch smooth, paint-ready, and primed if requested. Most homeowners have a painter touch up the patches (a few hundred dollars for a whole-house touch-up) or paint entire walls if they were already considering a refresh.

If you want us to handle painting as well, we can add it to the scope — typically $800–$1,800 for whole-house touch-up depending on the number of patches and your color selections.

Final cleanup

On the final day, the crew:

• Removes all floor protection
• Vacuums and wipes down all work areas
• Moves furniture back into position
• Hauls away all debris, old pipe, and packaging
• Walks the homeowner through every room to verify condition

We've never left a home in worse condition than we found it — other than the intentional access holes that are patched smooth and ready for paint.

Permits & inspections

Every whole-home repipe in California requires a plumbing permit from the local building department. The permit ensures the work is inspected for code compliance — which matters for your homeowner's insurance, your future home sale, and your own safety.

Who pulls the permit

We do. Permit handling is included in our quoted price — we don't add it on later or ask you to pull it yourself. We submit the application, schedule the inspections, and coordinate with the inspector on your behalf.

When inspections happen

Most repipes require two inspections:

• Rough-in inspection — after all new pipe is installed but before drywall patches are closed up. The inspector verifies pipe sizing, support, routing, and connection quality.
• Final inspection — after patches are complete, fixtures reconnected, and system pressurized. The inspector verifies final operation and signs off the permit.

On simpler repipes (single-story, straightforward routing), some jurisdictions combine these into a single final inspection.

What the inspector checks

• Pipe sizing matches code requirements for fixture count
• Pipe is properly supported (hangers every 4 feet for PEX, every 6 feet for copper)
• Shutoff valves are accessible at every fixture and at the main
• Thermal expansion tank is installed where required
• Pressure-reducing valve is installed if incoming pressure exceeds 80 PSI
• Proper pipe material ( Uponor PEX-A with proper certification, or Type L copper)
• Water heater is properly strapped (California seismic requirement)
• No improper connections (PEX-to-copper dielectric transitions, etc.)

After inspection sign-off

Once the inspector signs off, we provide you with:

• A copy of the signed permit card (for your records and future sale)
• The final inspection report
• Manufacturer warranty registration confirmation (Uponor, copper manufacturer)
• Our 25-year workmanship warranty certificate
• A maintenance schedule recommendation

Municipal variations

Permit requirements vary slightly across jurisdictions. Santa Monica requires an additional water conservation inspection. Beverly Hills has specific aesthetic requirements for exposed pipe in historic districts. Pasadena requires a separate green building compliance form. We handle all of these as part of our permit coordination — you don't need to navigate them yourself.

For more detail on Los Angeles permit requirements, see our LADBS permit basics guide. For San Diego, see our DSD permit basics guide.

2026 repipe pricing by home size

Real numbers from Pacific Line's last 240 whole-home repipes (May 2025–May 2026). All prices include labor, materials, LADBS/DSD permit handling, drywall patching, fixture reconnection, haul-away, and a 25-year workmanship warranty:

What affects the final price

• Fixture count — more bathrooms and fixtures = more branch lines and labor
• Home layout — single-story is cheaper than multi-story; attic access is cheaper than crawlspace
• Material choice — copper is 40–60% more than PEX-A due to material cost and slower labor
• Wall construction — plaster and lathe is slower to patch than drywall
• Slab vs. raised foundation — slab homes with above-ground reroute cost slightly more
• Pressure-reducing valve — required on homes with incoming pressure over 80 PSI ($320–$520)
• Thermal expansion tank — required on closed systems with check valves ($220–$340)
• Painting — optional, $800–$1,800 if you want us to touch up patches

What's always included

• LADBS, DSD, or municipal permit handling and inspection coordination
• All drywall patching, taping, mudding, and sanding at access points
• Haul-away of all old pipe, debris, and packaging
• New shutoff valves at every fixture
• New braided stainless supply lines to every fixture
• Pressure testing and final walkthrough
• 25-year workmanship warranty (on top of manufacturer warranty)

Financing

Most repipes qualify for 0% APR financing through our GreenSky partnership:

• 0% APR for 12 months on jobs over $1,000
• 0% APR for 18 months on jobs over $5,000 (most repipes)
• Low-rate 60-month plans at 6.99–9.99% APR for lower monthly payments
• Soft credit pull for pre-approval, instant decision

For a $9,000 PEX-A repipe on an 18-month 0% plan, that's $500/month with no interest — often less than homeowners were already spending on annual spot repairs and insurance deductibles.

For the full service-by-service pricing breakdown across all our offerings, see our 2026 LA pricing guide.

Warranties and what they actually cover

A repipe comes with two layers of warranty — the manufacturer's warranty on the pipe material, and our workmanship warranty on the installation. Both are important and both are transferable to future homeowners.

Manufacturer warranty

• Uponor PEX-A: 25 years on the pipe and expansion fittings against manufacturing defects
• Copper Type L: 50 years on the pipe against manufacturing defects
• Brass fittings: 10 years
• Shutoff valves: 5–10 years depending on brand

Our workmanship warranty

On top of the manufacturer warranty, Pacific Line provides a 25-year workmanship warranty on every repipe we install. This covers:

• Every joint, connection, and fitting we installed
• Every pipe hanger and support
• Every drywall patch we made
• Every shutoff valve and supply line
• Labor to repair any issue related to our work

If anything we installed fails within 25 years, we return and fix it — no charge, no questions, no deductible. The warranty is transferable to future homeowners if you sell, which is a valuable negotiating point at sale time.

What the warranty doesn't cover

• Water damage — your homeowner's insurance covers this, not our warranty
• Freeze damage — pipes that freeze and burst due to homeowner negligence (e.g., leaving a vacation home unheated) aren't covered
• Third-party damage — pipes damaged by other contractors, rodents, or natural disasters
• Fixtures and appliances — your faucets, toilets, and water heater have their own manufacturer warranties

Maintenance requirements

Our workmanship warranty requires basic maintenance to stay valid:

• Annual pressure check (we do this free on any service call)
• Shutoff valves exercised (opened and closed) annually to prevent seizing
• No unlicensed modifications to the system

None of these require a professional — they're homeowner-DIY items. We include a maintenance checklist and schedule with every repipe.

Frequently asked questions